These are the adjustments photographers mean by “colour,” not Instagram filters with names. Brightness and contrast are the blunt instruments. Exposure is a gain-style lift. Levels and curves shape the histogram. White balance warms or cools. Grayscale, invert, duotone, and color replace are the more opinionated moves.
Everything writes a new image from the pixels currently on screen. The original file on disk isn't touched until you overwrite it yourself. There's no layer stack and no non-destructive sidecar. If you need to compare, keep the original and use the before/after slider in Compare.
Auto enhance is a one-click levels-and-saturation lift for a flat phone snap. It isn't a substitute for looking at the histogram.
Brightness & contrast are the two sliders everyone reaches for. Brightness lifts or drops all values; contrast pushes them apart or together. Easy to overdo. If the photo is actually underexposed, try Exposure or Levels before you crank brightness until the blacks go grey.
Saturation & hue change how strong the colour is and where it sits on the wheel. A small saturation cut often beats a filter. Hue shifts are for a deliberate colour grade, not for “fixing” a white balance that White balance would handle more honestly.
Exposure applies a gain-like curve, closer to how a stop of light behaves than a brightness slider does. Useful for a dark phone shot. Highlights will clip if you keep going; that's physics, not a bug.
Levels sets black point, white point, and midtones. It is the right tool when a scan is foggy or a JPEG looks washed out. Pair it with the histogram page if you want to see what you're doing instead of guessing.
Curves on this site is a contrast fade for a softer, matte look, not a full Photoshop RGB curve editor. If you need channel-by-channel surgery, that's still a desktop job.
White balance warms or cools the image. It won't magically recover a shot lit by mixed fluorescent and sunset, but it will take the blue out of an indoor JPEG that the phone left too cold.
Invert makes a negative. Handy for white-on-black diagrams, a scan of a film negative, or a screenshot that's unreadable in dark mode. Not a colour grade.
Duotone maps shadows to one colour and highlights to another. Posters, thumbnails, and “make this product shot look designed” are the use. It is a look, not a correction.
Color replace swaps one hue range for another. Recolouring a shirt or a logo is in bounds. Hair, skin, and already-compressed JPEGs with noisy chroma will look patchy, that's the source, not the slider lying to you.
Auto enhance runs a conservative levels and saturation lift. It is for the flat, slightly muddy phone photo. It won't fix a blown sky, and it will make a photo that was already graded look worse.
Common questions
What is the difference between brightness, exposure, and levels?
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Brightness is a blunt add/subtract. Exposure behaves more like camera gain. Levels lets you park black and white points so foggy scans actually have a black. Start with levels if the histogram is bunched up; use exposure for a dark but otherwise fine photo; use brightness only when you really mean “everything lighter.”
Do these tools edit my original file?
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No. They decode a copy in memory and you download a new file. The original stays on disk until you replace it yourself. There's no cloud original because there's no cloud.
When should I use grayscale instead of dropping saturation?
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Grayscale is a dedicated conversion to luminance. Dropping saturation to zero on the hue tool is similar but not identical in how channels mix. If you want a clean black-and-white, use Grayscale. If you want “almost colourless,” use a small saturation cut.
Why these tools don't upload your files
There is no server to upload to. Each page is a static file, and the work happens in your browser. Your file is read from disk into memory, processed, and handed back as a download. Once the page has loaded you can disconnect from the network and it keeps working. The longer explanation